D.I.Y Clock Oscillator.
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This page contains diagrams for building a
variable frequency/duty clock oscillator of your own.
Home
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Variable duty oscillator using an LM555.
C2 and R4 are just for simulation and should be omitted. C1, R1 and R2 determine timing.
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Introduction
I've recently found I need a bunch of equipment that I previously did not
have. So I'm posting schematics here. If anybody wants any premade versions
of these, or if you find these diagrams useful, just drop me a line (address
on front page) and let me know.
Variable Duty Clock Oscillator
This is a modification to the standard 555 timing, overcoming virtually all the shortcomings of the
555 for use as a digital clock generator. This circuit can have virtually any duty cycle
from 0% to 100% by varying R1 and R2. I personally built one for use as a clock generator,
for my digital circuit designs. The timing of this circuit is determined by:
Ton=R1*C1
Toff=R2*C1
F=1/(Ton+Toff)
These equations seem to hold in reality. Good.
It seems that there is some confusion about R1 and R2. Yes, R1 and R2 are meant to be different
pots (not center-tapped) in my case, since I wanted a variable frequency. You could replace them
with a single center-tapped pot, but then your clock would be fixed frequency with variable duty
cycle. I wanted both, therefore I needed two knobs. If you don't have non-center-tapped pots,
you can just use an end and center tap of a center-tapped one (or connect one end to the center
and use that with the other end).
If you should have requirements for fixing the minimum or maximum duty cycles, fixed resistors in
series with R1 or R2 will do the trick. Just use the formulas.
Oh, feel free to use any general-purpose transistor you want, I'm probably going to use a BC547
and a BC557 myself (because they're really cheap). Oh, another thing I forgot to mention,
you can change the VCC voltage to virtually anything you want, as long as it won't pop your
555 (up to about 12V or so, I forget exactly). I'm pretty sure that the EBJ of the transistors
will never be pushed below it's limit (about 6V actually) in this way.
Now for gratuitous pictures of the one I built. I wish I could put up a scope picture of this, but
so far I have yet to figure out how to take pictures in my workshop.
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Front panel. I actually built mine as a desktop instrument. You can see
the bank of capacitors hanging off the switches. Left to right
is power switch, period adust knobs, range switches, and output posts.
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Back panel. Not much more than connections for VCC and Ground.
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Circuit board. It's a little scrap I had lying around, hence the rough
edges. This board is just standard "prototype PCB", which is
wired like breadboard. Two header connectors on top and bottom allow for
interconnect to be added later (just in case I need to change the design).
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Innards. This is a shot of the internals after assembly. This is actually
post test. The gray wire seen in the foreground is actually the camera wire.
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Outside shot. Isn't the modem-style case pretty? I got these from Radio
Shack a few years back, and I've been wanting something to do with them ever
since.
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Revamped outside, since I just got a cute little Dymo labelmaker.
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All material on these pages is Copyright (c) Jennifer E. Elaan.
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